AQM x Le Cuisinomane Comptoir tomate ricotta C

Published on June 29, 2023

Le Cuisinomane discovers: Laurie Raphaël, Kebec Club Privé, and Comptoir Restaurant

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Le Cuisinomane shares his gastronomic stops of the month.

“Ah… the joy of sitting down at a restaurant in the middle of June, when the transition between spring and summer reveals its second round of field vegetables, edible flowers, lobster at its very best, and of course the first strawberries. The three restaurants recognized by the Aliments du Québec au menu program that I visited this past month did not disappoint when it came to the abundance of local products on the menu: Comptoir Restaurant, Kebec Club Privé, and Laurie Raphaël.” – Le Cuisinomane

Comptoir Restaurant

Montérégie

210 Richelieu Street, Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu (QC), J3B 6X8

I really enjoyed my visit to Restaurant Comptoir, located in Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu. I was first won over by how the message truly reflects the actions (putting Montérégie on the plate): you see it, you taste it, you feel it.

The generosity and unapologetic indulgence reflected in the dishes were very satisfying. The appetizer highlighting fiddleheads, an early spring vegetable, wasn’t just five fiddleheads squeezed into the corner of a plate and seasoned to fill empty space.

Instead, it was an orchestra of greens on the plate, resting on generous spoonfuls of goat “beurrasse” from a local cheese dairy, enhanced with roasted apple cubes and marinated strips, then finished with a green oil (often made from fresh herb stems). No unnecessary frills—every flavor announced is clearly present, and it’s delicious!

The same can be said for the confit tomatoes, paired with a house-made ricotta made from Jersey 2A milk (naturally lactose-free), fried shallots, and brightened with lemony lemon balm oil. At that moment, the bread (or house focaccia) simply couldn’t wait any longer.

While the beef tartare with rhubarb variations was a great idea, I believe the dish would benefit from a slight adjustment in the ratio of the rhubarb elements, which appeared as cubes, purée, and fried pieces.

We finish with a silky panna cotta celebrating lilac season—well done!

Discover COMPTOIR RESTAURANT >>

Kebec Club Privé

Capitale-Nationale

767 St-Joseph Street East, Quebec City (QC), G1K 3C6

Kebec Club Privé is a restaurant that too often flies under the radar when it comes time to treat yourself to a truly unique gastronomic evening. No, it’s not actually a private club; the “private” aspect refers to the experience itself, which feels like being invited into the home of the chef-owner duo.

Think a New York–style loft in the heart of the Saint-Roch district, a warm Quebec welcome, and cuisine worthy of a Michelin star.

Each evening (Thursday to Saturday), the experience is offered to only 10 guests, where the culinary “dance” created by chefs Cassandre Osterroth and Pierre-Olivier Pelletier unfolds. Guests start with bites and cocktails in the lounge before moving to a shared table, where the nine courses presented throughout the evening each express the richness of the region’s terroir through the combined vision and talents of the two chefs.

Asparagus gently nestled in house-made sour cream with a delicate streak of tomato cream is followed by a Gaspé scallop hidden under its own smoked cream and garnished with compressed radishes.

Next comes a magnificent lobster prepared in two ways: first served warm in its bisque with a “ragout” of fiddleheads, while the tail—served cold—shines on a buckwheat crêpe, notably topped with a fiddlehead relish.

And it’s impossible to forget the halibut and Quebec morel ravioli, a dish that would easily hold its place among the finest restaurants in the world.

An experience that comes close to perfection every time—and one I truly wish every epicurean could enjoy.

Discover Kebec Club Privé restaurant>>

Laurie Raphaël

Capitale-Nationale

117 Dalhousie Street, Quebec City (QC), G1K 9C8

Even though chef Daniel Vézina stepped away from the helm of the gastronomic institution Laurie Raphaël a few years ago to let his children, Laurie-Alex and Raphaël, steer the ship, it’s clear the father can be proud.

Far from working in his father’s shadow, chef Raphaël Vézina quickly established his own personal signature while maintaining the same values instilled by Daniel: not only putting Quebec on the plate, but also constantly seeking the very best ingredients.

The menu, divided into five chapters, reads like a story where Quebec itself is the protagonist, showcasing both its richness and its seasonality.

The chapter “The Mark of the Seasons” continuously highlights new arrivals. During my visit, lobster—prepared three different ways and inspired by the classic lobster roll—was paired with spring plants such as lovage, reminiscent of celery. I would have preferred a bit more lobster (and a bit less mayonnaise).

The asparagus, at the peak of its season, shone on its own but was elegantly supported by crunchy puffed grains, a caressing beurre blanc, and a teasing black garlic purée.

Next came a dip into the St. Lawrence River with a creation highlighting halibut, whelk, razor clam, and Stimpson’s surf clam (a local mollusk similar to whelk), all bathing in a fennel-oil vichyssoise and finished with a foamy shellfish sauce.

A rib steak, served with the first zucchini blossoms of the year, completed the “New Arrivals” chapter and hinted that the story was coming to an end.

A pre-dessert featuring the beloved Louis d’Or cheese, followed by a strawberry dessert bursting with garden freshness, leads us to the bar-lounge area where guests relax with a final drink while enjoying the mignardise bar.

A truly great establishment—Laurie Raphaël.

Discover LAURIE RAPHAËL restaurant >>

Conclusion

Now it’s your turn to do your part by supporting restaurants that work hard all year to showcase not only Quebec products, but also the artisans and producers behind them.

Browse the restaurants recognized by the Aliments du Québec au menu program >>

Le Cuisinomane

This article is presented in collaboration with:

Discover his recommended spots that showcase Quebec products >>

Savor Quebec for every occasion!

Discover the full list of restaurants recognized by the Aliments du Québec au menu program for showcasing local Quebec products in their kitchens. There’s something for every taste and occasion, across the entire province! Click here >>

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