Published on September 15, 2023
Tommy Dion, food critic and founder of the blog Le Cuisinomane, traveled across Quebec to discover the 15 restaurants nominated for the Aliments du Québec au menu 2023 Restaurateur Award. He sat down at each of them to explore their cuisine and their story, and to observe their efforts and commitment to showcasing local foods and the artisans behind them.
His final five stops: Restaurant 1668 (Chaudière-Appalaches), Le Géraldine (Laurentides), Le Presbytère (Mauricie), La Traite (Capitale-Nationale), and Île Flottante (Montréal).
18255 Lacroix Boulevard, Saint-Georges, QC, G5Y 5B8
At this establishment in Saint-Georges in the Chaudière-Appalaches region, whose name 1668 refers to the surface area of Quebec’s territory, local ingredients are celebrated “the French way.” Chef-owner Ariel Cardinal-Petit is determined to honour both his culinary background and the rich gastronomy of the region.
Through every dish, you can sense the effort and craftsmanship, giving the tasting experience an added meaning. I particularly enjoyed the broccoli prepared in several ways—royal, poached in broth, and fried—served in a flavourful garlic consommé enriched with beef fat, which added remarkable depth.
Another highlight of the evening was the marinated Gaspé halibut, accompanied by shishito peppers—some blanched, others fried—and supported by a delicious (and not overly spicy) chili seed mayonnaise. Fabulous!
163 Saint-Eustache Street, Saint-Eustache, QC, J7R 2L5
What a pleasure it is to dine at Le Géraldine! This bring-your-own-wine restaurant in Saint-Eustache skillfully balances boldness and tradition, as well as indulgence and refinement, to offer guests a thoughtful and personal dining experience.
Chef Olivier Robillard takes his role as an ambassador of local products very seriously, showcasing them prominently both on the menu and in the dishes. Thanks to close relationships with many local producers and artisans, the menu sincerely reflects the season.
With tuna season in full swing in Gaspésie in early September, he presented it in two ways on the tasting menu: as sashimi with shiitake mushrooms marinated in plum juice, and as tartare seasoned with homemade sambal oelek.
This was followed by a beautiful ostrich tartare enhanced with marinated chanterelles, immature elderberry capers, cattail hearts and a green mustard emulsion, served with hemp-oil crackers and gorria pepper. The morel agnolotti were also outstanding, as was the final course: venison striploin with an impeccable fermented blueberry sauce and spruce shoots. A true delight!
Mauricie
1360 Main Street, Saint-Stanislas-de-Champlain, QC, G0X 3E0
It is in the former presbytery of Saint-Stanislas-de-Champlain, built in 1873, that chef Isabelle Dupuis and her partner Francis Boisvert—business partner, life partner, and brewer—decided to settle with a clear mission: to create a unique experience both gastronomically and in craft brewing at Microbrasserie Le Presbytère.
Working closely with regional producers—and enriched by their shared passion for foraging—the menu reflects this philosophy: Labrador tea, venison, alpaca, Appalachian truffles, sea buckthorn, sweet clover and forest mushrooms, the chef’s specialty.
On Fridays and Saturdays, the “Acte de Foi” tasting menu becomes a true culinary adventure filled with surprises. I must admit it pushed me out of my comfort zone a few times!
Whelk fritters prepared takoyaki-style, venison gravlax with spruce powder and birch syrup, orgetto with pine-forest nard and burdock purée, and cabbage stuffed with shredded seal were among the dishes that surprised me the most. My favourite of the evening, however, was the two-tone tagliatelle with halibut and scallops, enhanced by sautéed wild mushrooms and Appalachian truffles.
5 Place de la Rencontre, Wendake, QC, G0A 4V0
Chef Marc de Passorio, who previously worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in France and New Zealand, chose to settle at La Traite with two main goals: to showcase Quebec products and honour Indigenous traditions. Hunting, fishing and foraging are each reinterpreted through the chef’s creative lens.
The lobster cooked with blueberry gin and cold-smoked to order pays tribute to lobster fishing in Natashquan, where the crustacean was traditionally cooked over driftwood upon the fishermen’s return.
Corn—one of the Indigenous “Three Sisters” crops—is celebrated in several ways: as corn cream with sunflower seeds, hazelnut oil and agastache popcorn, as a textured purée beneath marinated scallops, and as corn flour in bannock bread.
This is also the perfect place to enjoy game meats—during my visit, both bison and venison were featured on the menu.
Montréal
174-176 Saint-Viateur Street West, Montréal, QC, H2T 2L3
Colourful, flavourful and full of discoveries and new combinations, the experience at Île Flottante will delight the most passionate epicureans.
At the helm is chef Sean Murray Smith, known for his intellectual, artistic and innovative cuisine. From the very first course, guests are transported into his creative universe: a veal and beet tartare supported by three sauce textures—mustard emulsion, rice-milk emulsion and chive oil.
The pleasure begins—and ends—with texture: fried kale, poached radish wedges and thinly marinated slices, strips of celtuce (also known as asparagus lettuce) and endive leaves. Imagine the joy of creating your own perfect bite, combining textures and experimenting with new flavours. A true culinary playground that continues for five additional courses. Vegetarians and vegans will also find great delight exploring the chef’s universe.
Discover the full list of restaurants recognized by the Aliments du Québec au menu program for showcasing local Quebec products in their kitchens. There’s something for every taste and occasion, across the entire province! Click here >>
