Le Cuisinomane at the 2023 Restaurateur Award Nominees: Part 2

Bistro Cerf-Cuit-Court

Gaspésie

474 Perron Boulevard, Carleton-sur-Mer (QC), GOC 2E0

Sea urchin, serviceberries, wakame, halibut, tuna—how can I subtly say that at Bistro Cerf-Cuit-Court, you taste Gaspésie? Chef Philippe Allaire makes it a point to source ingredients through a short supply chain (less than 200 kilometers), working with around thirty local producers and artisans year-round.

While I greatly enjoyed the oysters—harvested just a few hundred meters from the restaurant—served with seaweed kimchi, salmon roe, and garden herbs, my favorite was the board loaded with delicious regional products: seared scallops with aronia berry confit, beet-cured trout gravlax with apple garnish, smoked salmon, whelk and seaweed salad, and beef tartare. What a beautiful showcase of Gaspésie’s flavors!

Le Mange-Grenouille

Bas-Saint-Laurent

148 Sainte-Cécile-du-Bic Road, Rimouski, QC, G0L 1B0

You are first charmed by the village of Le Bic, located along the St. Lawrence River. Then captivated by the unique setting of the inn and its restaurant Le Mange-Grenouille, which preserves the character of a house built in 1843—and finally delighted by the performance of the young team in both the dining room and kitchen.

Chef Antoine Landry’s dishes emphasize originality, blending modernity and youth with the restaurant’s century-old décor in a refreshing way. I loved the freshness of the Nordic shrimp surrounding a sun-kissed tomato gazpacho, as well as the indulgent scallop dish with chanterelles and yellow-pea panisse with oyster mushrooms, complemented by crabapple gel with fir vinegar and a creamy chaga mushroom sauce. A true delight!

Chez Mathilde

Côte-Nord

227 Pioneers Street, Tadoussac, QC, G0T 2A0

If you enjoy blind tasting menus where each dish reveals both the expertise of chef Jean-Sébastien Sicard and a piece of the Côte-Nord terroir, then Chez Mathilde in Tadoussac is a must.

I still dream about the perfectly shelled crab meat gently bathing in shrimp garum (a fermented shrimp sauce), enhanced with vibrant sea buckthorn berries. There was also a lobster “taco” with anise-flavoured beurre blanc, and the restaurant’s signature dish—on the menu for more than 10 years—two large scallops perfectly seared on one side, served over delicate beet purée with roasted fennel seeds and topped with brown-butter crumble and wintergreen powder.

Le Baumier

Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean
1400 du Jardin Boulevard, Saint-Félicien, QC, G8K 2N8

Here, refined French techniques meet the flavours of Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean. Chef duo Patrick Fournier and Sébastien Simard aim to share their love and pride for their region with every guest dining at Le Baumier.

After tasting their cuisine, I can confirm: mission accomplished. Crispy local cheese with a drizzle of boreal honey, risotto with freshly foraged wild mushrooms, and a beet salad prepared three ways with yogurt, goat cheese, pumpkin oil and sumac—all proudly from the region. And of course, the classic blueberry pouding chômeur, an absolute must.

Le Coureur des Bois

Montérégie

1810 Richelieu Street, Beloeil, QC, J3G 4S4

At Le Coureur des Bois, the approach to showcasing the region’s terroir is simple and focused. The concise menu offers five starters, five main courses and three desserts, along with two tasting menus (4 or 6 courses). This kind of menu always inspires confidence, so I opted for the full tasting menu.

Alongside executive chef Jean-Sébastien Giguère, chef Éric Fortin and his young brigade highlight seasonal ingredients. I particularly loved the beautiful wild sea bass—served with crispy skin—paired with a Quebec seaweed beurre blanc and coastal herbs such as sandwort, samphire and sea parsley. Each dish strikes the perfect balance between finesse and indulgence, proudly celebrating Quebec’s ingredients.